Wednesday, May 31, 2023

Beth in Azores Day 7








 We started with a visit to the Ananases Pineapple Plantation.  It has been a family run business for six generations.  We learned about their organic techniques for growing pineapple in greenhouses. So interesting.  In the gift shop we tasted pineapple liquor. A little sweet but definitely had some heat going down. 


Next we did a 5 mile coastal walk along the northern coast.  We passed through several small villages and walked along beautiful seaside areas. Our route took us along a dirt road that was originally cleared as agricultural access between the villages and the pastures.  Like others we have hiked, these access roads have become popular for hikers as they are very scenic.

After lunch, we visited a tea factory.  Also a family business,  it was begun in the 1800s and continues with many of the same techniques and processes. The fields of tea leaves were amazing to see. Inside, we observed workers at various stages of preparing and packaging the tea.

At the end of the day we arrived at our last hotel, the Terra Nostra Garden hotel in Furnas. It is located on the grounds of a botanical garden that is rated #2 in all of Europe. There is also a thermal pool heated by volcanic activity in the area. 

The hotel is extremely beautiful.  Looking forward to touring the gardens tomorrow. 

Tuesday, May 30, 2023

Beth in Azores Day 6






 We started with a ride to the northwest end of Sao Miguel to Sete Cidades or Seven Cities. This area contains another caldera, this one much, much larger than the one we saw on Terceira. Within the caldera are two large lakes (Green Lake and Blue Lake) and seven pasture areas between the volcanic peaks. We hiked around part of the rim of the caldera where we could view the most spectacular scenery we have seen so far this week.


On our way back to Ponta Delgada, we stopped in the village of Capelas where there is a very unusual museum filled with collections of Azorean memorabilia and handicrafts. There were also many rooms depicting representations of Azorean life of past centuries. 

Back in Ponta Delgada, a small group of us went to see a restored synagogue which is now  a museum. Thanks to the "before" photos we were really able to appreciate how much had been done to restore the sanctuary.  

In the evening,  several of us went to an authentic Portuguese restaurant nearby where I had a delicious dish of bacalhau (cod), shrimp and Portuguese sausage cooked in a clay pot. 

Monday, May 29, 2023

Beth in Azores Day 5






 Today was a hiking day. We drove about 20 minutes to the Quatro Fabricas da Luz or Four Factories of Light trail. It is situated in a deep forest that was the site of a hydroelectric plant in the early days of renewable energy.


The plants are so thick and lush. We saw giant ginger lily leaves, giant ferns, eucalyptus and much more. Also, waterfalls and streams. And, many hydrangeas which grow so wildly here they are considered weeds!

The hike was challenging, with many narrow trails and lots of changes of elevation. It was a lot of fun and we felt like we were in Jurassic Park.

After the hike, we stopped in Vila Franca do Campo, a small town adjacent to a black sand beach.

In the afternoon,  we had a walking tour of Ponta Delgada.  The architecture here is very different from Angra. Not colonial but a mix of modern and Spanish Gothic.  

Sunday, May 28, 2023

Beth Azores in Day 4






 Today was a transition day. Not much hiking but several walks to beautiful overlooks and seaside areas. 


After breakfast we attended a talk by a local geologist.  She spoke about the science  of geothermal energy and the efforts to have more clean energy on Terceira.  Lots of information and very inspiring.  So far, they can supply 34% of their energy with geothermal power plants. 

Then, we boarded our bus together with our group leader, Arianna, and our local expert, Felipe.  Felipe is a naturalist and also an expert on Terceira's history and culture. He has been with us on our hikes and he always has a lot to teach us and talk about.  

The weather in the Azores is  VERY changeable.  It will rain, be sunny or windy without notice.  Today, the forecast was for rain so the plan was to "chase the weather " as our guides say. We set out to look for the sunniest or driest spots and wow, they did a great job!

We started in Sao Sebastian which is the oldest village on Terceira. Next was Sao Mateus on the southern coast.   It was once a whaling village but now it is the only fishing village. 

 Continuing on, we stopped at several lookout points to view the island from different directions.  By then it was lunch time.  We stopped at a restaurant that is part of a golf course that was originally  built in the 1950s for American military personnel based on Terceira.  Now it is a public course and they serve an incredible buffet lunch. 

During the 70s and 80s there was a large American air force presence on Terceira.  The American and British military first came to the island toward the end of WWII when Portugal joined the allied forces. By the 70s, there were 7000 American personnel.  Today, only 200 remain so most of the base is deserted.

Our last stop was Praia da Vitoria. This is the second largest town on Terceira and it has a beautiful marina area. To reach the marina, we walked down 350 stone steps. The view was amazing. In Praia we had time for a little shopping and day drinking.  We had a local beer named after Brianda, a noblewoman who saved her community from the Spanish by releasing bulls to attack them. Google her for the whole story!

From there, we headed to the airport for our flight to Ponta Delgada on the island of Sao Miguel where we will stay for the next three days.

More hiking tomorrow.  Can't wait to see how different this island will be.

Saturday, May 27, 2023

Beth in Azores Day 3










 This morning we hiked on Monte Brasil.

The mountain is a protected area with many hiking trails and lookout points. Some of the trails are quite narrow and change quickly up or down. So, I was able to try my hiking poles and they were a really big help.

We saw many plants including native Azorian heather plus others that were introduced to the Azores such as Japanese Cedar trees.

One of the mountain lookouts is a whale watching station.  The whaling industry was very important on Terceira until the 1970s and eventually outlawed in 1983. Today whale watching trips are very popular and the Azores are one of the top destinations for this activity.  There are 24 species including some that reside here all year long since the weather is so temperate and consistent. The staff at the lookout station is there to alert the boat captain as to where to find the whales just like in past centuries, but now just to entertain the tourists.

From the peak of Mont Brasil we had wonderful views of Angra do Heroismo. It was fun to see the city from above.

After our hike we had lunch at our hotel where they prepared a delicious vegetable soup and a traditional stew called Alcatra. Since I love braised meats, this was a great treat.

In the afternoon we had free time. Three other Road Scholar travelers and I walked around town. We returned to the municipal garden where we had been on our first day. Then, we climbed to an obelisk that is a monument to Pedro IV who was King in the 1800s. From there we could see the town from a different perspective which was fun. After we came back down, we stopped to see the local church which is quite beautiful.  And, there was a wedding taking place!

Next, we walked to the marina because we heard there was a gelato shop. There was, and it was delicious.  I had fig gelato for the first time. So good!

Tonight a group of us will go for dinner at a local restaurant that features authentic Portuguese cuisine.

Thursday, May 25, 2023

Beth in Azores: Angra de Heroismo

 Day 1. 

We arrived on Terceira Island and checked in at our hotel in Angra do Heroismo. The town is a Unesco Heritage site because it was rebuilt to match original architecture after an earthquake in 1980.

The town was also strategically located during Portuguese exploration and trade eras because it is due west of Lisbon and provided protection to the mainland.

Climate is temperate year round so many crops are grown including coffee and bananas.

We had a walking tour of the town. Stopped at a local pastry shop with two other travelers for a snack on the way back to the hotel.

Pictures attached are various  local buildings to highlight the architecture as well as the town gardens and a shot of our tour guides with a statue of Vasco de Gama.