Monday, April 22, 2024

Ragusa & Modica

Chocolate bar making with Graciela

The set up

Photo with Marinella

Church of San Giuseppe



Duomo
Ibola Garden



Beef Carpaccio w/ honey mayo


Seafood with mango
Ravioli

Pasta alla Norma

The Hot Chocolate

Cathedral in Modica



The only place they allowed photos in the museum

Salad- tomatoes with ricotta salada


On Sunday morning after breakfast, we met our driver and guide and took a car about an hour outside of Siracusa to Ragusa. 

In addition to a walking tour and learning about the history of the area, our guide Marsha took us to a few shops where she knew the owners/artists. Our first stop in Ragusa was to a fashion designer Marinella Stornello. Along with her husband, they design purses, jewelry and handbags. We each bought a scarf that she had painted the design and then screen printed onto the silk. She showed us video of her latest show in Milan fashion week. 

We went to the two primary churches in Ragusa. One church, San Giuseppe, used to be a convent for women and they all live silently. We prepared to go in and also be silent but we were surprised to find a nun speaking to a school group. 

After San Giuseppe, we walked to the cathedral: the Duomo of San Giorgio. It was so beautiful inside. What was especially interesting about the outside is that the church wasn’t facing the piazza, it was on a bit of an angle as if giving the whole town side eye. Before returning to our car, we walked through the Garden Ibleo and went into the chapel there. Marsha pointed out that in Sicily the depiction of Virgin Mary is more of a middle aged bereft mother wearing black and mourning her son, and less of a young woman. 

After Ragusa, we went on to Modica where we met Graciela. Graciela is a restaurant owner and grew up making Modica chocolate with her grandmother. Modica chocolate is prepared cold and to get its protected rating it has to have a specific sugar to cocoa ratio, it also won’t melt easily.  She told us about how during COVID she moved out of town and now makes a lot of things herself. After making a few chocolate bars to take home, we went upstairs for lunch. Before leaving the restaurant, we had hot chocolate made with the leftovers from our chocolate bars. Marsha then took us to the Duomo of St Peter. It was a very large cathedral as well. The steps have statues of the 12 apostles and she told us since the church faced the entrance to the Jewish quarter, it was to try to entice Jews into converting. After visiting the church and a shop where the owner and her mother hand embroider, we got back in the car and headed back to Siracusa. 

Back in Siracusa, we visited the Museum of Archimedes and DaVinci. They didn’t allow pictures but it was really fun. Each station had a write up written in 1st person as Archimedes and explained different designs and inventions- like different gear styles and different Naval weapons developed by Archimedes or the concept was started by Archimedes and the invention came from DaVinci.

After the museum we got pizza & beer, then gelato and went home to pack. On Monday we are going to the cooking school. 

Sunday, April 21, 2024

Exploring Ortigia

Giant Statue near Castle

Castello Maniace

Piazza del Duomo
Cathedral of Siracusa



Archeological Park




Mom for scale
Greek Theater of Siracusa

Roman Theater of Siracusa

Apertivo

Eggplant Parmigiana

Seafood Risotto

Sweet & Sour Tuna

Cannolo

Marscapone with Berries

Saturday morning, after breakfast, we met our guide Patricia and began our tour of Ortigia (the neighborhood of Siracusa where we are staying). The city was still pretty quiet which was nice. We started at the castle at the end of the peninsula and worked in. Patricia explained to us the city history in its different occupations and how different religions factored into the architecture. We spent some time in the main church admiring the architecture and mosaics. She also took us around the Jewish and Arab quarters and explained how the style of their buildings were different. For example, they used the bottom floor of their building as a shop and lived above. She took us to the ruins of the temple of Apollo and the market. When she took us into a sandwich place a man behind the counter quickly shoved giant pieces of smoked mozzarella and onion jam at us. The weather was so beautiful the sky was the color blue or a windows stock wallpaper. 

After we said goodbye to Patricia, we grabbed cones of fried calamari and then found a taxi to take us to the archeological park across town. The park was very interesting. There were VERY large sculptures throughout which was nice because the ruins and caves were mostly giant rock formations. There was a Greek theater and a Roman theater as well. From the park, we walked to the museum to see some of the found relics. 

After taking a taxi from the museum back to the hotel and regrouping, we went out shopping in Ortigia. We took a break for a drink at a cafe and eventually made our way to dinner at Retro. Dinner was delicious: we had eggplant parmigiana, seafood risotto, seared tuna with onions and then a cannolo and maracapone with strawberries for dessert.

Sunday we are getting picked up and exploring Ragusa and Módica.

Saturday, April 20, 2024

Travel to Siracusa

The Tasting Room At Benanti




Meatball and Eggplant w/ shaved chocolate





Gelato at Don Peppino

Mussels 

Lemon Cake

Sardines and anchovies

Cuddle fish pasta

Friday morning after breakfast, our driver for the day, Christian, picked us up at our hotel in Taormina. From there we set out towards Siracusa. 

Along the way, we stopped at the Benanti winery. We had a private tour and tasting and learned more about Mt Etna wines. Of course the tasting came with a lot of food to try. Everything was delicious. I still don’t love red wines and some of them were a little strong for me. They reminded me of the Super Tuscan red wines. 

After the tasting, we continued on to our hotel in Siracusa. We are staying in Ortigia, a peninsula within the town of Siracusa. It’s very walkable but not closed to cars on a lot of very small streets. After dropping our bags off, we went out exploring and got our first gelato of the trip. I was excited to see Almond gelato again, for whatever reason it is hard to find at home. 

For dinner, we went to Sicilia in Tavolo and had a great meal. We ordered steamed mussels (that were steamed in sea water), cuttlefish pasta with cuttlefish ink sauce, anchovies & sardines with vegetables and a lemon pie for dessert. 

Saturday we have a guide showing us around Ortigia.